David Paxton, Paxton Wines Q&A | WineTalk

It’s fair to say a small portion of Australian vineyards - and a large portion of McLaren Vale vineyards - are sustainable thanks to David’s acumen and pragmatism. Take, for instance, in 2004 when he wanted to know why his fruit was good, but not good enough. He found the answer at a biodynamic conference.

But converting to the unconventional farming method came with its challenges. Yes, the vines survived without chemical intervention; yes, the soil healed; the vines were stronger and the fruit better quality; but not everyone was happy.

For David, biodynamic viticulture was about quality, not philosophy, and today Paxton Wines is one of the largest biodynamic producers in the nation as well as at the forefront of the natural wine movement, but that’s a story for another time.

David, can you tell us a little about your history in the McLaren Vale region?

I grew up on a mixed farm and when I was 19, thought if I want to get a proper job I had to create one for myself, so I started my own business.

Which was?

An almond processing plant, and in 1979 I purchased my first vineyard on Sand Road.

When did you branch into grapegrowing?

That year, but the wine industry was in serious recession with the only in-demand grapes being Riesling, or anything that could be made to look like Riesling.

So you planted Riesling?

No. I planted Chardonnay.

You went against the trend?

We thought the run on Riesling was about to have its day, so we planted a lot of varieties including Cabernet, Chardonnay and Merlot and Shiraz in the mid 90s.

You also went against the trend when you converted to biodynamics. What appealed to you about the alternative farming method?

The vineyard manager at that stage was Toby Bekkers and we decided to explore the opportunities and options to improve our viticulture.

What markers concerned you?

Not getting any more money for our grapes, and although we thought our wine was good, we felt it could have been better, but we didn’t know how or why. We’d seen a purity and structural difference in wines that were not grown conventionally. Some were ghastly and some were fabulous, and that’s how we ended up at a biodynamics conference in Beechworth, which was held in an appropriate building, the old lunatic asylum.

Where you heard about planting to the lunar calendar?

Exactly. My initial day was spent wondering if I should leave, but then a number of Australian producers started to talk about the practical reasons why one would approach biodynamics: its history, how it improves soil health giving vines strength, protection. It was a revelation. It had a great effect on me. I came away thinking, ‘wow, there really is another agricultural method’. Back to the future, if you like.

What year was that?

2004.

What year did you introduce biodynamic farming methods?

2004. The next day. We went straight to it. We converted one property and within six or eight months found the soil was improving. We were so excited with the results that we decided we might as well convert everything that was ours.

How much was that?

We now have about 80 hectares fully certified biodynamic.

You were one of the first to introduce biodynamics to the region. How was it received?

Toby Bekkers is a scientist, so it was from that perspective we looked at what we were doing. But any change is to be derided. Organics was fine, but biodynamics was viewed negatively. It was as though I was bringing something from the Dark Ages into the region. I was quite surprised.

But you saw benefits?

There was a subtle but noticeable change in style and quality of the fruit and we found our disease pressure was less. We’ve been through drought and a couple of very wet years and still grew fruit of excellent quality. But we’re always nervous. I’m not trying to say this is a panacea, it’s a full time job, but we found the vines built a natural immunity to disease with the introduction of biodynamics.

So, for you, it’s about quality rather than philosophy?

Because a philosopher designed it, doesn’t mean to say it’s purely philosophical. Rudolf Steiner produced a relatively simple management technique for growing any sort of plant based on the observations of people who, for thousands of years, have worked and produced food, crops and wines without the use of synthetic chemicals.

How important is soil health?

Critical. It’s the foundation of biodynamic farming. Ninety per cent of all living matter is in the soil and if we destroy it with herbicides and pesticides we’ll end up with the Sahara Desert. Basically if we kill the soil, we kill the planet.

You participate in the annual Rootstock artisan and natural wine festival, which wine writers say is a ‘game-changer’.

You have to wear dreadlocks for that.

So, you feel a bit out of place?

No, I haven’t been. Ben [Paxton] is the sales and marketing manager and he doesn’t feel out of place. Rootstock is quite good for us but you have to understand the majority of people don’t care what wine they drink, it’s just how much it costs, and it’ll be like that until organic and biodynamic food is part of the way society wants to live. Once that happens, acceptance of biodynamic wine will follow.

Is ‘biodynamic’ a marketing leverage?

You have to be careful, because when we’re out selling wine we’ve been asked if we dance naked at midnight.

Surely you do?

No, we don’t dance. People are suspicious.

But you were suspicious at first.

I was. Absolutely.

What would you say to current sceptics?

Just give it a little try. Anybody who’s a farmer, or a gardener, and is using synthetic sprays to kill bugs and weeds; you should try it. It reminds you there was a way of growing food - and by association wine - that was totally unreliant on chemical intervention to protect crops and enhance growth. It’s the way we’ve farmed for centuries, and there’s nothing weird about that.

* WineTalk is a feature of On the Coast, a free monthly publication and website that covers South Australia's southern vales region. 

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